Posts About Europe - Cascadian Abroad

Day 23: Amsterdam

February 21, 2016 by Robert Haddan

“The Queen ate here,” says Bob of Bob’s Vlaamse Frituur, a french fry stand in Amsterdam’s famous Albert Cuyp Market.

He nodded toward a photo hanging in his booth. We expected to see the instantly-recognizable Queen Elizabeth of England, but this is The Netherlands and they have their own royal family. He proudly recalled the time she visited and we tried to keep our enthusiasm at Queen of England levels.

We arrived in Amsterdam late afternoon and immediately headed for the market, which was only 20 minutes away from closing for the day. Many of the stalls were still open and the market would become a daily starting point for our adventures into the streets of Holland’s capital city.

Amsterdam may be best known for its Red Light District and legalized drug use, but these sordid details make up a very small part of the city. The public areas—parks, plazas and markets—are vast and lively. There’s a charm to the bicycle traffic, which easily outnumbers the automobiles. Dodging the bikes and the trams is an art form all its own.

The architecture is brilliant. The old-world charm hasn’t been lost, even as modern-day life takes place in and around. Cafes dating to the 1600s are still in operation. Many of the narrow brick buildings have sinking foundations, their forward-list apparent next to their tightly-packed neighbors.

We continued to explore the streets, eventually stumbling upon Museumplein. The large park is flanked by the definitive Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum with its collection of Rembrandt and Chagal works. But the most popular draw that night was the frozen-over pond being used as an ice skating rink. Nearby, tourists posed for photos on and around the “Iamsterdam” sign (I am Amsterdam… Get it?).

After the sun went down, we wandered up and down the canals that separate the city’s neighborhoods. Tourist boats were few and far between. Instead, houseboats were anchored along the banks. Small rowboats were tethered nearby. The canels aren’t just part of Amsterdam’s neighborhoods, they are the neighborhoods.

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Slippers in the form of wooden shoes at the Albert Cuypstraat Market.

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...and the real deal! — …and the real deal!

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These kids were doing goofy things kids do, so when Viktoria asked to take their picture, they just kept on being kids.

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Day 22: Embracing Today

February 20, 2016 by Robert Haddan

The section of the Berlin Wall at Ackerstraße is the last remaining original section and is part of the Berlin Wall Memorial. The first sections of the wall were built here and, in a symbolic gesture, were among the first to be torn down.

Because of the way our flights worked out, we only had two full days in Berlin. It’s tough to balance seeing the “things” with getting to see some of the real city in such a short amount of time.

On day 22, our last in Berlin, we took the metro to the popular Kreuzberg neighborhood for its Turkish Market. Dozens of vendors sell everything from fresh produce to freshly-made Turkish food to fabrics and handmade goods. It was exactly what we needed to lift our cold and rainy spirits from the day before.

From there, we walked around the aptly-named Museum Island, home to many of Berlin’s top collections. At one point, about 20 police vans went screaming by. Armed officers lined the streets, closing off sections of the area. Eventually we gave up and moved on to the Berlin Wall Memorial near our Airbnb (affiliate link—sign up now and receive a discount on your first booking!).

We’d later discover that the police presence was due to an official state visit by Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. The PM and his entourage beat us to the Memorial, but fortunately it was mostly open for us to move around.

The memorial is located around the only remaining original section of the wall. A guard tower and an area between the walls known as the “death strip” have been preserved as well. It’s a powerful memorial as it shows scenes from before, during and after and the impact it had on the Ackerstraße neighborhood.

The Turkish Market in Berlin's Kreuzberg neighborhood was excellent, packed with food, produce, crafts, fabric and more. — The Turkish Market in Berlin’s Kreuzberg neighborhood was excellent, packed with food, produce, crafts, fabric and more.

A vendor at the Turkish Market serves up salep, a drink made from milk, starch, sugar, cinnamon and a glutinous flour made from orchids. It was delicious with a texture like tapioca.

A 3-D mural on a wall near the Turkish Market.

Climbers descending the sphere of the 1,200 foot tall TV tower in Berlin.

A police tank in Berlin's Museum Island district. Hundreds of police vehicles and officers patrolled the streets due to a visit from Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. As a result, many sights were inaccessible as Netanyahu and his entourage visited the area. — A police tank in Berlin’s Museum Island district. Hundreds of police vehicles and officers patrolled the streets due to a visit from Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. As a result, many sights were inaccessible as Netanyahu and his entourage visited the area.

One of the last remaining original stretches of the Berlin Wall at the Berlin Wall Memorial.

A cross commemorating the graves of St. Elizabeth Cemetery that were displaced by the building of the Berlin Wall seen through a crack in the wall.

A guard tower and the area between in inner and outer walls known as the "death strip" can still be seen at the Berlin Wall Memorial. — A guard tower and the area between in inner and outer walls known as the “death strip” can still be seen at the Berlin Wall Memorial.

Very few pieces of the Berlin Wall remain today, but the path of the wall is still clearly marked by a double row of cobblestones with a plaque inserted at regular intervals.

A cross placed by the Church of Reconciliation at the memorial. The church's membership was divided by the wall. In 1985, the church was destroyed by the East German government. — A cross placed by the Church of Reconciliation at the memorial. The church’s membership was divided by the wall. In 1985, the church was destroyed by the East German government.

The wall was built over a section of graves at the St. Elizabeth Cemetery. When the wall was torn down, the cemetery kept the section that was built over the grave sites as a memorial to the disturbed souls.

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Day 21: A City Divided

February 19, 2016 by Robert Haddan

For nearly 30 years, a major world city was divided in half by a concrete wall. On one side, Western-style prosperity flourished in a post-war economic boom. On the other side, people longed for freedom as they lived under the thumb of a totalitarian government.

The Berlin Wall—Berliner Mauer in German—served a dual purpose. Technically, the wall faced West Berlin, keeping the “fascists” (as East German propaganda referred to the west) from crossing into the Communist-controlled east. But ultimately, the wall kept East Berliners inside. With each escape attempt, the wall as further fortified until it became virtually impenetrable.

On our first full day in Berlin, we walked a three-mile stretch of the wall’s remains from the East Side Gallery to Brandenburg Gate. While only small stretches of the wall still exist, a double-cobblestone line traces the original position of the wall through the streets of Berlin.

East Side Gallery features works of peace and politics and has now stood as a symbol of freedom for nearly as long as the wall stood as a symbol of the Cold War. West Berliners famously used the wall as a canvas for political street art. When the wall finally fell in 1989, a project was commissioned to bring artists from all around the world to paint murals on the newly-opened border.

During the 1990s and 2000s, many of the paintings degraded due to weather or were covered by graffiti. In 2009, a new project commissioned the original artists to come back and redo sir works using more appropriate paint. Fences were added to limit the reach of vandals.

Today, the gallery is the longest stretch of the original wall in Berlin at just short of a mile. Signs detail each of the 105 paintings showing when that piece of the wall was constructed, when it fell, when it was painted and when it was restored.

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One of the most famous pieces at the East Side Gallery, entitled "My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love" by Dmitri Vrubel recreates a famous photo of Soviet Chairman Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany Chairman Erich Honecker engaging in a kiss. — One of the most famous pieces at the East Side Gallery, entitled “My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love” by Dmitri Vrubel recreates a famous photo of Soviet Chairman Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany Chairman Erich Honecker engaging in a kiss.

The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with "American" soldiers as a tourist photo op. — The famous sign at Checkpoint Charlie, an original border crossing between East and West Berlin is now in a museum. The checkpoint has been recreated in its original spot, complete with “American” soldiers as a tourist photo op.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is "designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason." — The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is a far-reaching series of stone slabs with varying heights. According to documents, the memorial is “designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason.”

Built in 1791, the Brandenburg Gate originally served as the beginning of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg City. The gate was closed off during the wall era and became a symbol of reunification when the wall finally came down in 1989.

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Day 20: Berlin

February 18, 2016 by Robert Haddan

A building across from the Beisselstr. train station in Berlin.

Just as it was unfair to judge Barcelona at its best, we had to be careful not to dismiss Berlin at first glance. Compared to sunny Barcelona, arriving in Berlin was quite a shock as we were greeted by below-freezing temperatures and rain mixed with snow. The boisterous crowds of tourists gave way to bone-chilled locals who all seemed to be on edge. As we arrived at the metro stop near our Airbnb apartment, we saw two people fighting in another car. Pepper spray was deployed. It wasn’t pretty.

Our apartment ended up being further away from things than we anticipated out in the eastern suburb of Wedding (pronounced Vedding), but that gave us a chance to explore the real Berlin. On a Sunday night, that means most things are closed.

The neighborhood is one of Berlin’s poorest financially, but richest in terms of diversity with 48 percent of the population made up of non-Germans, primarily Turkish immigrants. We saw this walking through the streets as we ended up at a small, family-run Turkish restaurant for dinner. Of the three tables, we occupied one and the family, sitting down for their own dinner, occupied the other two. The food and atmosphere were both great.

After dinner, we walked to Vagabund Brauerei, one of a growing number of craft breweries in Berlin. Vagabund considers the movement a renaissance instead of a trend. During the 19th century, more than 700 breweries existed in the city with a focus on the signature Berliner Weisse, a white sour beer. Today, there are around 20 craft breweries in the city, combining old German-style recipes with influences from around the globe. The IPA we ordered at Vagabund was packed with Oregon-grown hops.

Next we stopped into Simit Evi, a bakery (or konditorei) packed with people enjoying a late-night sweet. We shared a slice of cake and drooled over the other treats on display. Before heading home, we bought a loaf of bread at a small bakery. The old lady behind the counter handed us a couple of of sesame rings—also called simit in Turkish—as we headed out. So kind. So delicious!

On the way back to the apartment, we heard the familiar sound of drums. Unlike in Barcelona, these drums were accompanied by a flute. We followed the sound to the community hall where a Turkish wedding was underway. The bride and groom had just arrived and the party was headed inside. A wedding in Wedding… perfect!

Looking out the airplane window as we leave Barcelona.

The kitchen of our Airbnb has a Jackson Pollock-inspired design.

The makali plate, a mix of fried vegetables, at the small Turkish restaurant.

Vagabund Braurei in Wedding's up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district. — Vagabund Braurei in Wedding’s up-and-coming Leopoldplatz district.

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Day 19: Park Güell

February 17, 2016 by Robert Haddan

A person could spend a week in Barcelona chasing the unique designs of architect Antoni Gaudí and not see everything. Of the 19 buildings designed by Gaudí, 12 are in Barcelona proper and seven make up the UNESCO World Heritage collection “Works of Antoni Gaudí.”

We didn’t intend on chasing down Gaudí’s list while in Barcelona, but we ended up seeing three up close and personal. After visiting La Sagrada Familia and Palau Güell, we finished with a day at Park Güell.

The park was another in a series of collaborations between Gaudí and Catalonian entrepreneur Eusebi Güell, intended as a place where Barcelona’s emerging upper-class could build homes and live in a community of shared ideals. For Gaudí, the bare land on Carmel Hill was a blank canvas, a place to explore his artistic tendencies toward harmony between nature and architecture.

Walking into Park Güell is akin to stepping into the board game Candy Land. The first two buildings—the Porter’s Lodge and the Porter’s House—look like they were plucked from the Gumdrop Forest with their whipped frosting roofs placed atop cake-colored brick and decorated with mosaic tile sprinkles.

From the second floor of the Porter’s Lodge, you can look down over the Dragon’s Stairway and the Hypostyle Room. The “dragon” is actually a very large sculpture of a salamander, again adorned in broken tile mosaic. The Hypostyle is a large covered area, the roof held in place by groupings of massive columns. Several large spaces were left inside with the intent of setting up a marketplace for the park’s residents.

Atop the Hypostyle’s roof, Gaudí built a public square. Plaça de la Natura is outlined by a tile-covered bench that curves in and out around the entire edge of the square. From the front edge, you can look out over Barcelona’s Gràcia district all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

Heading downhill from the Nature Square, you walk through the crown jewel of Gaudí’s attempt to blend nature and structure. The Washerwoman Portico, named for the single carving of a woman carrying a laundry basket on her head, looks as if it could have occurred naturally. Rough, slanted stone columns frame a long, curved walkway. Standing inside the walkway, it appears as if you’re in the trough of a crashing wave.

The park surrounding the monument area is much more simple. The winding path climbs up and down Carmel Hill, offering many quiet moments in stark contrast to the busier interior. The largest crowd will be found on the top of Turó de les Tres Cruces—Hill of Three Crosses—chasing a free view of the city.

With less than 24 hours remaining in Barcelona, we headed for the city’s famous beaches. After a couple cool and drizzly days, the weather gods smiled upon us with a sunny, 70 degree day and the locals and tourists alike were taking advantage. Barceloneta, the main beach along the coastline, was full of sunsoakers, bicyclists, joggers and even rollerbladers (can’t remember the last time I saw an unironic rollerblader in the US). We caught the sunset as it faded away from the Mediterranean and headed back toward the city.

After one last tapas dinner, we worked our way through the Gothic Quarter back toward our apartment when the sound of drums caught our attention once again. We wandered into the parade of Correfoc dels Diables Petits or Fireworks of the Little Devils.

Kids of all ages, dressed in devil costumes and trailed by large bands of drummers, ran down the side of La Ramblas carrying sticks with sparking fireworks attached to the top. When lit by a “responsible” adult, the firework would spin atop the stick, sending a shower of sparks flying into the crowd.

We watched for a few minutes before letting go of Barcelona and heading back to our apartment. The sound of drums and general cheer carried on until early the next morning; a great way to remember our time in Catalonia.

The Porter's Lodge at Park Güell. — The Porter’s Lodge at Park Güell.

The salamander statue on the Dragon's Stairway at Park Güell. — The salamander statue on the Dragon’s Stairway at Park Güell.

Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter's Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance. — Looking down from Plaça de la Natura at the Porter’s Lodge and House. The district of Gràcia and the Mediterranean Sea can be seen in the distance.

The street-facing side of the Porter's Lodge. — The street-facing side of the Porter’s Lodge.

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Day 18: Festival of Saint Eulalia

February 16, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Saint Eulalia, or Laie, wades through the crowds at the end of the procession through the narrow city streets.

It’s not entirely fair to fall in love with a city when it is at its best, but those are cards we were dealt with Barcelona. The already-lively capital of Catalonia was flooded with summertime levels of tourists thanks to the weeklong celebration of Les Festes de Santa Eulàlia.

Saint Eulalia earned her sainthood at age 13 after being tortured by the Romans for refusing to renounce her religion. The festival that honors her focuses on events for and involving children.

We could hear the procession of drums from a block away outside our window on the second morning of the festival. We gulped down the rest of our breakfast, threw on some shoes and chased after the party. While we never caught up with the parade, we did catch the pinnacle of the Diada Castellera, the building of human pyramids, performed by Els Falcons de Barcelona. The pyramid peaked at nine rows, with each row of people getting younger and younger until finally a boy of maybe 6 or 7-years-old caught his balance atop the mass of humanity.

After lunch in the quirky Plaça de George Orwell—named in honor of the English writer who joined Spain’s Independent Labor Party and fought during the Spanish Civil War—we visited another of architect Antoni Gaudí’s masterpieces, Palau Güell.

Part of the UNESCO collection of Gaudí’s works around Barcelona, the mansion was designed for industrialist Eusebi Güell in the 1880s. The home is situated in the middle of a neighborhood of shops and apartments, but the understated facade doesn’t seem entirely out of place save for the large, arched doors with their intricate cast-iron work, a Gaudí signature.

Once inside, the scope of what Gaudí accomplished on the small footprint of land begins to take shape. A large stable sits below ground for the horses who would pull carriages from the street-level entrance. The great room has a soaring spire for a ceiling with perforations meant to invoke the feeling of being under the stars. The perfectly arranged architectural elements throughout create both space and comfort.

The more eccentric pieces of Gaudí’s work were saved for the outside. The wooden shades on the back bay windows recall steampunk design. On the roof, 20 chimneys covered in brightly-colored mosaic tile rise like a technicolor forest. The near-360° views of Barcelona are impressive.

That evening, we headed back into town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where a small orchestra was set up on the stage. Barcelona’s older population had gathered, creating large dance circles. While the music played, everyone in the circle held hands and performed a simple box step dance that became more intense as the music crescendoed. When the song finished, everyone would cheer, greetings were exchanged and everyone moved on to another circle to begin the next dance with new neighbors.

Soon, the festival’s main event got underway with The Walk and Dance of Laie. The giant puppets we saw on our first day lined up in Plaça de Pi, giving festival goers a chance to see the gegantes up close. Local volunteers served sweet bread and warm chocolate pudding to anyone who was interested.

The puppet crew then mounted up, climbing underneath the puppets, and started the procession through town toward Plaça de Sant Jaume where they waded through the tightly-packed crowd.

The event ended with a light show broadcast on the city hall building, kicking off the second-half of the evening. LLUM BCN featured light installations at 21 different locations throughout the Gothic Quarter. The lines were a hundred deep at each, so we just watched from afar.

We finished our night in true Barcelona fashion, settling in for tapas around 10 p.m. before making our way home for the night. Barcelona was quickly moving up our list of favorite places in the world.

A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter. — A bridge between two buildings as we approached Plaça de Sant Jaume in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter.

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Els Falcons de Barcelona performing the Diada Castellera.

Our lunchtime view in Placa de George Orwell. The English author joined the Spanish militia in the 1930s to fight fascism in Barcelona, an era he chronicled in his book Homage to Catalonia.

The extravagant interior at Palau Güell.

The roof of Palau Güell with mosaic tile work on the chimney and the Güell name written in ironwork on the rail.

The main spire at Palau Güell acts as a ventilation system and lets natural light enter the house.

The Festival of Saint Eulalia in Barcelona, Spain.

One of the 21 light installations that made up the LLUM BCN Festival.

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Day 17: La Sagrada Familia

February 14, 2016 by Viktoria Haddan

Being a lifelong Spanish student and teacher, I had always heard about the Basílica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona and I certainly had an idea of Gaudí’s life works and contributions to Barcelona. But, as we’ve been on the road a couple of weeks and seen many cathedrals, including St. Peter’s in the Vatican and Notre Dame in Paris, we were coming into Barcelona a little wary of touring yet another church. How good could it be, we wondered.

On a rainy Thursday, we purchased our tickets online and set off. Neither of us had looked at pictures online or had any idea what to expect. In retrospect, I’m glad because pictures (including ours) don’t do it justice.

Coming out of the metro, the cathedral was behind us. The first glimpse was…wow, immense, where the hell are we? Is this really our life right now? (A question asked frequently in the last few weeks). I’ve heard the towers described as “bony” and “melting ice cream cones” and both seem somehow appropriate. It was drizzling when we arrived, which I think helped with the crowds. We walked right through the reserved online tickets entrance. So far, so great!

After taking in the exterior facade, we walked through the ornate doorway. I was instantly transfixed. The white, scalloped columns extending upwards (towards Heaven?) first caught my eye. And the play with color and light. Gaudí was not afraid of color; my kind of man. The inside is so special. Like a dream.

To the right, is Christ on a cross, suspended under a lighted halo of an “umbrella.” To one side is Mary and the other, Joseph. The three comprise the Holy/Sacred Family, also known as the Sagrada Familia.

A little bit into our audio tour, we stopped to take in the main altar, which includes the aforementioned trio. I found a quiet place nestled in a column facing the front. The organ music. The light. The color. The shapes. The height. It was just too much. I burst into tears. Happy tears. There are places in the world that remind you how small we are, how fragile life is and how unimportant our problems really are. I was so moved.

We spent about four hours in the church and I could have spent more. We stayed until closing when everyone had left and just took in the silence. Finally, about 20 minutes after six, we were ushered out. We took a brief detour to the crypt of the church, which was still open to the public. This is where Mass is held for Catholic Church goers and it includes the tomb of Antoni Gaudí.

I can’t wait to come back in 2026, when the exterior construction of the church will be finished. Though the inside is the real treasure.

Looking toward the main alter. — Looking toward the main altar.

Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main alter. — Looking up at the unfinished tower above the main altar.

The sunlight shines through the various colors of stained glass creates a prism inside the cathedral. Gaudi made sure light would play a major role in the design of La Sagrada Familia.

The columns holding up the roof were designed to look like trees with the ceiling decor resembling palm fronds.

Stained glass on the left side of the cathedral.

The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the alter. — The cathedral is still a work in progress, as it has been since 1882. The stained glass has yet to be installed on the circular windows beside the altar.

Outside, the neo-gothic cathedral reflects in the windows of the modern souvenir shop.

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Day 16: Barcelona

February 14, 2016 by Robert Haddan

Our week in Paris ended at an obscene hour as our alarm began its painful chime at 4 a.m. We successfully navigated two bus transfers and managed to see a nearly-unobstructed view of the Arc de Triomphe (there’s still quite a bit of traffic on Champs-Élysées at 5 a.m.) en route to the airport. We watched the sunrise as we boarded our flight to Barcelona.

The early morning flight meant we had a few hours to pass before checking into our Airbnb. We stashed our bags in a local locker facility, grabbed lunch and headed out on the town, starting on La Rambla.

La Rambla is the main drag for tourists in Barcelona. The tree- and vendor-lined pedestrian street runs for a mile from Plaça de Catalunya to a monument of Christopher Columbus looking out over the Mediterranean Sea.

Our first stop was the La Virreina Image Centre. We lucked out in our timing, arriving on the weekend of the hugely popular Festival of Saint Eulalia. The center was displaying the giant puppets that would walk the streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter in just a couple nights. Upstairs, an exhibition of Albert Serra’s SINGULARITY featured eight rooms, each with part of a film playing. It was weird…

Along the way, we stopped into the Mercado de La Boqueria, a sprawling food market with butcher shops, seafood stands and sit-down restaurant stalls. If you can’t find it here, you probably don’t need it.

By early afternoon, our apartment was ready and we met our host in the El Rambla neighborhood near the El Gat sculpture by Fernando Botero. Botero’s fat cat has been a Barcelona mainstay since 1987, but moved around town trying to find a home. The statue, which is the size of a midsize sedan, finally found its permanent place in 2003 and has become a popular meeting place for the locals.

The early flight caught up with us and we bookended our day by watching the sunset from our balcony before calling it an early night… the only one we would have in Barcelona.

Sunrise at Paris's Beauvais Airport. — Sunrise at Paris’s Beauvais Airport.

The gigantes y cabezudos (giants and big heads) of Barcelona would be featured throughout the weekend during the Festival of Saint Eulalia.

The banner for the Festival of Saint Eulalia.

Barcelona loves its futbol team! Barça, Barça, Baaarça!

A small fruit and vegetable market set up behind Mercado de La Boqueria.

El Gat, Barcelona's favorite fat cat. — El Gat, Barcelona’s favorite fat cat.

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Day 15: The Sweetest City

February 13, 2016 by Robert Haddan

The window of Jean-Paul Hévin's shop in Paris.

On our last day in Paris, we had to work up the courage to brave the worst weather we’d had in the first two weeks of our trip. Heavy rain and high winds were in the forecast and would play a part in the day.

We started by heading way out to Paris’s 11th arrondissement for what might be the city’s best crepes at West Country Girl. The set menu offers a savory crepe and a sweet crepe, both made with buckwheat flour, and a cider for a reasonable price. We both had variations on an egg and cheese crepe for our savory choices and chose blackberry jam and WCG’s homemade salted caramel for our sweet crepes. Everything was excellent, especially the salted caramel, and the dry crisp cider was the perfect side.

After lunch, in which we dodged most of a passing storm, we headed back to the metro station when we accidentally stumbled on Père Lachaise Cemetery, the famous final resting place of author Oscar Wilde and The Doors frontman Jim Morrison among other notables. The cemetery is usually open to the public, but entrance was restricted to funerals only that day due to the high winds creating a danger of falling branches.

Thwarted by the weather, we took the train back into the city center to follow one of ChocoParis.com‘s walking tours of the city’s most popular chocolate shops. From the Louvre to Arc de Triomphe, we covered 2.6 miles visiting two chocolate shops and two macaron shops.

At Michel Cluizel’s shop we sampled a few of the single-origin chocolates. Cluizel has been making chocolate since 1948 and is one of the few chocolatiers in the world who processes its own cacao.

Our next stop was Jean-Paul Hévin’s shop. Hévin is widely considered as the top chocolatier in Paris and has five shops in Japan and a pair in Hong Kong in addition to his four Paris locations. The two-floor flagship store features a variety of pastries and chocolates downstairs with a tea room serving his famous hot chocolate upstairs. We bought a sampling of chocolates infused with Earl Gray tea-infused, pistachio and coffee and headed upstairs. We skipped the hot chocolate since the heat was cranked up way too high in the tea room, but the chocolates were delicious.

Further down the road, we walked into Pierre Hermé. The vibe was more high-end jewelry shop, but the diamonds were replaced with chocolate and macarons. Hermé, a fourth-generation pastry chef, is famous for macarons, a multi-layered, cream-filled, merengue cookie. We went with the favorites—milk chocolate and passion fruit, pistachio and raspberry and a salted caramel. These were my favorites of the day thanks to the light, fluffy cookie layer and rich fillings.

A short walk away is Hermé’s competitor for macaron dominance, Ladurée. The shop has been a mainstay in Paris since the 1860s. Credited as the inventor of the macaron, the shop offers a variety of different flavors. We tried the cherry almond, pistachio, rose and salted caramel. Viktoria favored these over Hermé’s, so I guess the macarons war will continue to rage on.

Unfortunately, the weather turned to a steady rain as we left Ladurée and we missed the final two stops—Patrick Roger and La Maison du Chocolat—as we ducked for cover from the rain. We did eventually reach our end goal, the Arc de Triomphe. A memorial to France’s soldiers in the Revolution and Napoleonic wars, it marked the end of our battle vs. the weather and our time in Paris.

Michel Cluizel's shop on Rue Saint-Honore in Paris's upscale shopping district. The chocolatier specializes in single-origin chocolate and is one of the few chocolate makers in the world to process its own cacao. — Michel Cluizel’s shop on Rue Saint-Honore in Paris’s upscale shopping district. The chocolatier specializes in single-origin chocolate and is one of the few chocolate makers in the world to process its own cacao.

The single serving chocolates at Jean-Paul Hevin.

Photos of the Arc de Triomphe are always tightly cropped because it sits in one of Paris's busiest intersections. All our photos are filled with cars and white delivery vans! — Photos of the Arc de Triomphe are always tightly cropped because it sits in one of Paris’s busiest intersections. All our photos are filled with cars and white delivery vans!

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Day 14: Montmartre

February 12, 2016 by Robert Haddan

The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur, the highest point in Paris.

For us, traveling is about trying to find a balance. You can’t go to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre, but our favorite days are when we get off the main tourist trail and into the cities we visit.

On day 14, our fourth full day in Paris, we walked through the Montmartre neighborhood near our apartment. The area is best known for the long, winding hill leading through a historic district up to the white-domed Basillica of Sacré-Cœur (pictured) or as home to the Moulin Rouge cabaret club, featured in the film of the same name.

We started from our apartment at the bottom of the hill, making a quick detour for lunch and sweets along the way. The first stop was the Cafe des 2 Moulins (Two Windmills Cafe) named for the famous Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette nearby. The cafe had become a favorite tourist spot since being featured in the movie Amelie.

Further up the hill, we passed the former apartment of Theo van Gogh. Theo allowed his brother Vincent, at the time a struggling artist who couldn’t afford his rent in Belgium, to live and work in the apartment. Vincent developed his signature style during his time in the Montmartre apartment.

Today, the most famous windmill in Paris is the neon one above the Moulin Rogue, but in the 1600-1700s, more than 30 windmills powered the flour and grape mills on the hill. Built in 1622, Moulin de la Galette is the last remaining functional mill. Just down the hill, Le Moulin du Radet, built in 1717, has been converted to a restaurant.

We turned the corner past one of Paris’s oldest cabaret clubs, Au Lapin Agile where Picasso hung out at the turn of the 20th century, and came upon a small vineyard. Clos Montmartre produces enough grapes for about 600 bottles of wine annually, but was originally planted to stop the growth from urban development in the surrounding area from creeping further into the residential property.

After running a gauntlet of caricature artists on the souvenir shop-lined street of Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, we finally arrived at Sacré-Cœur. The highest point in Paris, the 100-year-old church offers sweeping views of the city below. We ducked inside the cathedral for a look around just as a huge wind and rainstorm passed through, the clear blue skies we’d enjoyed just moments before replaced with menacing, dark clouds.

After the weather passed, we began our descent down the hill. We walked through the small Place du Tertre where Picasso and Renoir honed their crafts as starving artists. Local artists can still be found in the area now populated with cafes and shops.

As we returned to low ground, we made one last stop near the Abbesses metro stop. Many of the city’s metro stops still have the Art Deco-style signs indicating the entrance to the underground, but Abbesses is unique. Its canopy is one of two remaining glass and cast-iron designs of Art Nouveau architect Hector Guimard from the early 1900s.

Some epic street art at the foot of Monmartre.

Amelie's workplace, Cafe des 2 Moulins, on Montmartre's Rue Lepic. — Amelie’s workplace, Cafe des 2 Moulins, on Montmartre’s Rue Lepic.

House 54 on Rue Lepic once belonged to Vincent van Gogh's brother Theo, who allowed the struggling artist to live and work there while developing his signature style. — House 54 on Rue Lepic once belonged to Vincent van Gogh’s brother Theo, who allowed the struggling artist to live and work there while developing his signature style.

Moulin de la Galette, built in the 1600s, is Paris's last functioning mill from the era. — Moulin de la Galette, built in the 1600s, is Paris’s last functioning mill from the era.

The neighborhood vineyards at Clos Montmartre were planted to keep urban sprawl away from the homes. It produces just a few hundred bottles of wine, most sold at an annual festival.

A view of Paris from the base of Sacré-Cœur.

The shops of Place du Tertre. Folklore says the word "bistro" was coined here by Russian soldiers ordering food at the cafe who would shout "bystro," the Russian word for "quickly." — The shops of Place du Tertre. Folklore says the word “bistro” was coined here by Russian soldiers ordering food at the cafe who would shout “bystro,” the Russian word for “quickly.”

The glass canopy at the Abbesses metro station.

The Wall of Love is an art installation near Abbesses. It features the phrase "I love you" 311 times in 250 languages. — The Wall of Love is an art installation near Abbesses. It features the phrase “I love you” 311 times in 250 languages.

More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe