Last weekend, I was fortunate to have time to take a day trip to Alexandria. Alexandria is north of Cairo and lies on the Mediterranean Sea, where the Nile River spreads out and drains into the sea. I learned in the Nile felucca post that the Nile runs south to north—which defies my logic!
The interesting thing about Alexandria is that it was founded by the Greek Alexander the Great so the Greco Roman influence is felt in the architecture, ruins and religion. It’s where Cleopatra courted Julius Caesar and later ruled fawith Mark Antony (now that is #goals). The sunny blue skies, white washed buildings and colorful boats gave more of an Athens than Cairo feel. I was elated by fresh sea air and blue skies!
Are we still in Egypt? The slanted building to the right is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
Robert had a discount code from winning a photo contest with Urban Adventures so I used it for their day tour of Alexandria. Urban Adventures tagline is ‘Best. Day. Ever.’ And it really was. The drive time to Alexandria from Cairo is about three hours, give or take an hour depending on traffic.
Blue skies and palm trees in Alexandria. And it wouldn’t be Egypt without a couple of minarets!
We started at the city’s Kom el Shoqafa catacombs; I didn’t know it was one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. It was discovered in the modern age of 1900 when a donkey almost fell down one of its air shafts. The catacombs were the city’s underground burial place for humble residents and honored royals alike. When I first heard “catacombs,” my mild claustrophobia kicked in with visions of long, dark tunnels and skulls. Thankfully, the tombs were well lit with plenty of headroom and oxygen.
The artwork on the main familial tomb had both Greek influenced art—after viewing the drawings inside in the Sakkara tombs, I could see the difference. Greek art is more rounded and freestyled while Egyptian is more angular and uniform. Our guide said that if Egyptian artists had painted pyramid tombs as carelessly as the Greeks they would be fired!
Greek style art in the main burial chamber of the catacombs.
Next, we passed by the Romans ruins of an amphitheater, which again, made me question where we were. The ruins were only discovered in 1960, accidentally again. They were purportedly used as a meeting or lecture hall.
The Roman Amphitheater in Alexandria.
After lunch, we started exploring my favorite part of the city, which is the corniche, or waterfront area. It was gorgeous!
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Boats lining Alexandria’s corniche, or waterfront promenade.
Our little group started to scatter in all directions to take pictures. With the city to our left and the water and boats to our right, we strolled until we reached the Qaitbay Citadel.
The Modern Mosaic by Fort Qaitbay. Mosque and minarets are pictured on the bottom left. Beside, stand the gods Taweret and Ra.
This citadel is built upon the exact location of the original Alexandria Lighthouse (one of the Ancient Wonders of the World). The lighthouse used to be the tallest manmade structure in the world, which is amazing considering it was on a tiny island.
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It’s unfortunate that of the tourists who do come to Egypt, few make it to Alexandria. I’m lucky to have experienced it and I’m looking forward to my next trip!
It’s Me!
Look for an upcoming post about the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alexandria Library).
Cairo’s most famous market, also known as “souk,” has been around since the 1500s. It’s popular with tourist and Egyptian shoppers alike; though like many “tourist” places in Egypt it was pretty lacking in tourists who looked like me. Come to Egypt, one and all!
Khan (the k is not pronounced) means ruler or king. Khalili refers to Prince Jaharkas Al-Khalili.
Khan el Khalili was on my list of things to see right away. I was interested in looking at the market’s famous gold and silver jewelry. I also wanted to find a Turkish coffee pot. I did a lot of window shopping and didn’t end up buying anything, but I may have to think about making room in my suitcases for some of the unique copper lanterns. The merchants weren’t pushy and let me browse in peace for the most part!
The market is situated next to a large mosque called Al-Hussein. Next to the mosque is a row of historic coffee and tea shops, where I stopped for some mint tea and people watching. Smoking shisha/hookah (water pipes with different flavors of tobacco) is a common pastime here also. It was a busy Saturday and lots of local tourists and families were milling around, making a visit to the mosque and souk.
For my next visit, I would like to come back in the evening. Cairo seems to come alive at night.
Courtyard with Al-Hussein Mosque behind it serves as an entry point for the market.Row of coffee shops on the way to the market. Can you spot the people smoking shisha?Speaking of shisha, you can buy your own pipe to take home with you.The colors and designs of these small bowls are so appealing! Think they’ll survive the journey back to the U.S.?The perforated copper lanterns are so romantic. I’ve got my eye on you…More lanterns lined this wide alley.Candleholders and lanterns. I’ve learned that the Hamsa is a palm-shaped design commonly used in jewelry and wall hangings.Light fixtures and chandeliers.This street featured the gold shops (some were closed) and street food. Do you see the flatbread vendor?Gold and silver street.The other side of the mosque. Can you see the policeman on horseback patrol? Or the woman balancing a bucket on her head?Heading back into the heart of the market. The eye design on the wall is the Eye of Horus, which is a symbol for protection. I’ve seen women wearing necklaces with the shape.Decorative beads.T-shirts, belly dancing gear and figurines.A baladi bread seller appeared behind us with a balancing act on his head!Should I get a necklace with my name in Arabic?Mint tea in front of Al-Hussein Mosque.
I’m done with my first week of school! I’m teaching 8th, 9th and 10th grade. I can’t believe I have students who were born in the 2000s; where is the time going?
My schedule is keeping me on my toes. The workweek is Sunday through Thursday, which is hard to get used to. I keep saying “This is due on Friday… I mean Thursday,” and students laugh. Students are also correcting my pronunciation of names. Hana, Malak and Jana are popular girl’s names, and Mohamed, Omar and Youssef for the boys.
I thought I would do a very simple “Day in the Life” post. I will probably do a more detailed one once I get more into a routine.
6:00 a.m. Wake up, make breakfast and get ready for school.
6:30 a.m. The first week, I left home at this time to walk about 2 km to the bus stop. I love Cairo in the mornings. It’s cool, breezy and quiet. My new schedule, I will catch a bus at 6:50 a.m. in my neighborhood. The bus leaves around 7:00/7:10 a.m.
My classroom is very colorful! It will be more decorated soon. The first week I didn’t have a clock, which made me feel disorganized.
7:30ish a.m. Arrive at school. I go straight to my classroom, turn on the air conditioning and start the day.
7:55 a.m. School starts. We either have an assembly where students line up outside by homeroom or students come to homeroom right away. I have a 9th grade homeroom class.
I accidentally ordered five falafel sandwiches from the school cafeteria. All ordering is done in Arabic and hand gestures. I thought I was ordering five falafel pieces. Needless to say, it all got eaten.
8:15 a.m.–3:05 p.m. The school day. My schedule changes every day, but I usually teach three or four classes a day. Lunch is about 45 minutes long. I have lunch supervisory duty once a week. It is so hot midday that most students eat their lunch in the shade. Though the boys play soccer (“football”) and come to class drenched in sweat.
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Going home on the school bus.
No seatbelts required!
A local farmer in the Giza neighborhood near the school. Shot out the school bus.
3:15 p.m. Bus leaves for home. The bus ride home is an interesting time to peer out the window at the traffic and things going by.
A one-eyed cat to greet me at the door.
3:45/4 p.m. I’m home! Thankful to have a relatively short commute there and back.
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I had groceries delivered. In addition to some fruits and vegetables, I had fresh Baladi (sort of like pita) bread and frozen falafel for dinner. No, I’m not sick of falafel yet!
Hummus in a can, it’s what’s for dinner. It was surprisingly good for $1 canned hummus.
4:00 p.m. to…? I make dinner and pass out on the couch. The first week I was in bed by 7:00 or 8:00 p.m. I haven’t had a lot of papers to grade at home yet. That will probably change once we get into the swing of things.
I like to watch House Hunters International, but I have a few problems with the show. I want less “house” and more “international.” Most of the show is spent on repeating the details of house 1, 2 and 3. And most of the buyers are demanding of Western standards and usually have unrealistic expectations of size, location and price. My favorite part is the last two minutes of the show where they reveal the house they “chose” and how they like living in that particular destination.
Despite my skepticism of reality TV, I decided to present three apartments (or “flats”) that I was shown in the search for my Cairo home. I think it’s interesting to see how people all over the world live and that’s probably what makes the show popular.
Most of the newcomers chose to live in the Cairo neighborhood called Maadi because it’s green; the tree-lined streets are a relief from city life. It has a walkable lifestyle, which was my favorite part of living in Japan. And there are many cafes and restaurants around—both Egyptian and foreign. The neighborhood is a haven for expats, but still has the local charms that I am looking for.
My wish list included:
1 or 2 bedrooms
any floor
clean kitchen
budget between 4,000 to 6,000 Egyptian pounds ($450 to $675)
Note: All of the apartments we saw are furnished, spacious and have air conditioning units and secure entrances.
For the floor levels below, I am using the American standard. Our bottom floor is called the first floor. Whereas, in most other countries, the bottom floor is the ground floor and the next floor up is considered the first floor. Try explaining that to American middle schoolers studying Spanish…planta baja, primer piso, segundo piso, etc.)
On another note, our real estate agent, Sherif, is the most patient man I have ever met. He juggled so many different likes and dislikes and personalities of our group. He deserves any commission he made—and more. He took us out on multiple days and arranged rental contracts with landlords all over Maadi.
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The living room of House 1
The kitchen in House 1
The master bedroom in House 1
The second bedroom in House 1
The bathroom in House 1
House 1—Big on Kitchen & Style
5,000 Egyptian pounds ($562)
3rd floor
2 bed, 1 bath
House 1 made the list because of its giant kitchen and plush living room, including a flat screen TV and two full size couches. It has a lot of decorative items like paintings, figurines and plants on the walls and surfaces. This is both a pro and a con. It made it feel like a place you want to live, but it also felt like you were living in someone else’s house. I prefer a simple style.
It has two bedrooms. The master has wooden floors and a comfortable bed with a large mirrored closet. The guest room has two twin beds for visitors. I would probably never use the second room.
The kitchen is very large with a full size dishwasher, six burner gas stove, microwave, refrigerator and a washing machine. I like the multiple wood cabinets and tile floors. It looks fully functional and ready to go on move-in day. House 1 is right in the middle of my budget.
The front door of House 2
The living room of House 2
The kitchen in House 2
The master bedroom in House 2
The outdoor patio in House 2
House 2—Red Couch, Balcony & Vintage Tiles
4,000 Egyptian pounds ($450)
2nd floor
2 bed, 1 bath
This apartment is a little more “shabby chic.” I liked some of its details like the red lantern lamp, red couch and chair. We had a red couch when we moved into our first house. I also like that it has a balcony on the shady side of the building. The two bedrooms were spacious and included a queen and a twin bed, but didn’t include any bedding or pillows. I may want to buy my own anyway!
The downsides were that it is a little dark; the kitchen is hiding in the back of the flat with no windows to let in the light. The living/dining room needs a few rugs to warm up the stark white tile floors. Although the kitchen is tiny, it has cool wall tiles that looked like vintage Arabic advertisements. This complex has a daycare in one of its units, but we were assured that the hours are when we are at school and it doesn’t operate on the weekends. House 2 is the cheapest flat.
The front door of House 3
The dining room in House 3
The living room in House 3
The master bedroom in House 3
The kitchen in House 3
The bathroom in House 3
House 3—Country Home
5,800 Egyptian pounds ($650)
First floor
1 bed, 1 bath
This place is unique because it is not located in an apartment complex. The downstairs of the owner’s house has been converted into an apartment. This place has the ultimate homey feel. You walk into a dining room with warm earth toned tiles and touches of red (my favorite color). It opens to the living room with a TV and floral couches. It has a private entrance as well as two doors that open to the outside patio.
The one bedroom is carpeted and has a king size bed and vanity. The kitchen is adorable (blue and white is another favorite color combination) and contains a refrigerator, microwave, toaster and a “kettle.” The bathroom has a washer and a shower with a door, but no bathtub like the previous two places. House 3 is the most expensive on the list.
I am pleasantly surprised by apartments in Cairo! I’ll report back in a few days with my pick, but in the meantime, do you think I should choose House 1, 2 or 3? Head to the comments sectionbelow to have your say!
During the first week of orientation, the school treated new staff to a sunset felucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile River.
From our hotel in Zamalek, we crossed the 6th of October Bridge and followed the east bank of the Nile River, the longest river in the world. We passed the historic Tahrir Square, the place where the 2011 revolution demonstrations were held. Near the square is the American Embassy.
We started the ride during the sunset, which provided gorgeous views. Our group divided between two boats and began a slow float.
The owner of the school pointed out some landmarks to us. On the other side, we could see the narrow Cairo Tower, which was just starting to light up for the evening. Next to it, was the Sofitel Hotel and the Cairo Opera House. Many boats were out because it was the weekend. It seems common to rent a party boat for a wedding or special occasion.
The land on both sides of the Nile is very green and lush, unlike the rest of Egypt. Take a look at Egypt on a satellite map; there’s a green ribbon snaking its way down the desert.
For that reason, farmers and landowners have always relied on the Nile as a source of water, especially during the season when it floods and leaves behind fertile land. In fact, ancient Egyptians thought that the god Hapy and the pharaoh could control the flooding. Additionally, the ancient people believed the river was a path from life to death and thereafter. It’s interesting how many civilizations connected their observations of nature to religion or spirituality.
Now, the river is still one of Egypt’s gems and symbols. Thank you to the school for a relaxing river float and introduction to life in Cairo.
What do you imagine when you think of the Nile? Head to the comments sectionbelow to take part in the conversation!
The captain at the stern (back) of the boat. The other group’s sailboat is behind us.Our boat on the right with a view of the sunset across the Nile.Our boat, another party yacht and a view of the Sofitel Hotel in the Cairo skyline.View from the bow (front) of the boat.Sails dancing in the water as the sun sets.Dusk on the River Nile.
Two years ago, we set out on an amazing adventure resulting in stamps from 20 new countries in our passports and a lifetime of memories.
On March 23, our time in Japan came to an end. Looking back, it’s hard to summarize the experience. From the first days, sorting out internet service while getting to know our new neighborhood (post #1 on Cascadian Abroad!), to the last days as seasoned travelers making our way around Europe, we’ve seen things we never thought we’d see and met people we’d never have met in the U.S.
Upon returning from Europe, we had just two weeks left in Japan. Most of that time was spent packing bags and cleaning out our apartment. Fortunately, we were also able to touch base with some of our new friends we’d be leaving behind.
We met up with some of the students from the first year for dinner at a local izakaya and karaoke. They presented us with several gifts, including a rubber samurai wig for me. One of the students worked at the izakaya and organized several vegetarian options for us.
At karaoke, we sang mostly American pop songs, but at the end of the night, they sang a Japanese song called Sangatsu Kokonoka (March 9 in English, video below) and each of them took a turn singing a verse. It was sweet and touching.
The night before we left, our former neighbor Tomoko and her two girls showed up at our door with some going away gifts and an awesome drawing of us by her four-year-old. She and her family included us in hanami (cherry blossom picnic) and Kawagoe Festival last year and we’ll miss their kindness and generosity.
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At the izakaya with last year’s Section 5 crew.
The haul of gifts from the Section 5 kids.
Tomoko and her daughters at our apartment the night before we left.
Reunited in the PDX parking garage!
The next day, we said goodbye to Mrs. Nakano. When we moved into our apartment, she was one of the first to greet us, offering some furniture for our new home. Over the last two years, she’s kept an eye out for us, offering vegetables from her garden and stopping to talk with us whenever we’d pass by. She made our transition a lot easier simply by accepting us.
That afternoon, we finished checking out of our apartment. Two of the students from karaoke night drove over to take us to the bus station. We were loading our luggage into the car when another neighbor, Serika, and her son came around the corner. He had a look of shock on his face when he saw our bags going into the car. I’d left a note in their mailbox, but quickly jogged over to say goodbye in person.
The boy is learning a little bit of English at school, so he always says “Hello” instead of “Konnichiwa” when he sees us. Last summer, they invited us to do fireworks with them out in front of the house. We’ll miss their smiling faces.
When you introduce yourself to someone in Japanese, you say douzo yoroshiku onegai shimasu, which literally means please be kind to me. We couldn’t have asked for kinder friends and I hope we’ll have the opportunity to cross paths again in the future.
American Again
After a nine-hour red-eye flight from Tokyo to Los Angeles, a five-hour layover with increased security thanks to the events in Brussels and another flight from LA to Portland, it was good to be back on solid ground. Our friends surprised us in the terminal with their three girls (who grew so much over the last two years!) and they brought our car, which they’d taken great care of while we were away.
Driving for the first time in two years was strange, especially at night and in the rain after just a few fitful hours of airplane sleep. Our first stop was for Mexican food—it’d been a LONG time!—then onto my brother’s house, where my mom surprised us as well. We didn’t last too long before the bed called our names, but it was great to see everyone.
What’s Next?
As we figure out our next steps, we’ll continue posting here at Cascadian Abroad. We still have lots of travel stories to tell and certainly won’t stop traveling now! While we get settled, I hope you’ll check out some of the older posts and say hello in the comments section below!
There are just a handful of landmarks that are intertwined with the identity of a place. The Great Wall of China. The Statue of Liberty. The Eiffel Tower. And the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
On our last day in Florence, we took a day trip out to Pisa to see one of the world’s great architectural follies. Construction on the grand tower began in 1173, but stopped just a few years in as the first three tiers began to list. Pisa’s artisans started again 100 years later, but could never solidify the foundation, built atop soft sand and clay. To compensate for the lean, the builders created a subtle curve in the remaining tiers.
The tower continued to sink as the centuries passed. By the 1990s, it had a five degree lean and was in danger of collapsing. To bring the tower back to its original lean, workers excavated more than 70 tons of soil from the north side, effectively sinking it back to “level.” The solution is expected to preserve the structure for another 300 years.
In person, the lean of the tower is far more impressive than in photos. The flag atop the tower is perpendicular to the ground and the neighboring Baptistry (which leans 51 cm itself) provide a baseline to see how far off-plumb it really is.
The quintessential Pisa photo is the “holding up the tower” shot. Watching all the tourists holding contorted positions and balancing precariously on posts and rails, all for the perfect shot, is part of the experience.
The neighboring Baptistry provides a point of comparison to show the amount of lean in the tower.From this angle, the “banana curve” of the tower can be seen. The original builders attempted to compensate for the tilted base by curving the remaining tiers.Close-up of the base. The tower began to list after the first three tiers were built due to the unstable sand and clay soil under the foundation.Holding up the tower is a lot of work. That’s why the tourists take turns.Imagine this scene without the tower…The tower’s neighbors in Campo del Miracola, the Duomo and Baptistry, are also slightly crooked at 25 cm and 51 cm respectively.Back in Florence to finish the day, we walked through the south part of town and across the Ponte Vecchio bridge. The bridge is lined with shops on both sides. Originally butcher shops, they now host jewelry and clothing shops.
More Photo of the Day posts from our January-March 2016 trip to Europe
Our first Christmas in Japan was all about observing the new traditions in the world around us. For our second Christmas here, we simply embraced it all in our own way.
Early December marks the beginning of illumination season. In the U.S., it’s common to decorate homes and even entire neighborhoods with sometimes elaborate lighting displays. In Japan, individual homes don’t really get into the act. Instead, shopping centers, parks, train stations and more light the winter skies with massive shows of moving lights and music. And while the Christmas displays in stores disappear the morning of December 25, the illumination shows stretch well into the new year.
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The elaborate illumination show at Caretta Shiodome
The elaborate illumination show at Caretta Shiodome
A couple poses for wedding photos at Caretta Shiodome’s Canyon d’Azur light display
This year, we visited Caretta Shiodome, widely considered to host the best illumination show in Tokyo. The theme for this year’s display, Canyon d’Azur, is reflected in the cold, blue lights that rise above the short path winding amongst them. Disney songs are the soundtrack for the light show, which plays every 20 minutes.
During one of the intermissions, a couple and their entire wedding party posed for photos in front of one of the lighted tree sculptures while Father Christmas officiated nearby.
Holiday/birthday fun at Lindsay’s place with Cassie, Owen and Vanessa
A few days later, we kicked off party season at our next door neighbor’s place with several of the crew from TIU. It was a combination birthday/Christmas party, which made for some wacky decorations and outfits.
Santa Claus stopped by Kawagoe City Hall to give Tokimo, our city’s sweet potato mascot, an early Christmas gift
A couple days before Christmas, our monthly city newsletter arrived in the mail. The photo on the cover qualified as an instant classic, featuring Kawagoe’s sweet potato-shaped mascot Tokimo posing with Santa Claus at the City Hall. More importantly, it was photographic evidence that Santa was in Japan!
One of Santa’s elves arrived dressed as a Kuroneko delivery driver to bring a selection of holiday-themed beers from around the world
On Christmas Eve day, a selection of holiday-themed craft beers from around the world arrived at our doorstep. I had no idea our Kuroneko delivery driver worked for Santa! It was possibly the largest collection of hops in a single location in the entire city that day.
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Sushi with the Section 5 crew. Akinari and Ayano have it figured out. Takumi is trying his best to muster a smile, but what’s up with Hiroto’s face?!
A Section 5 reunion after a year abroad!
On the evening of Christmas Eve, we met up with some of last year’s students for dinner at the sushi place near our house. Three of them studied in America last year, so it was cool to see how their perspectives changed. I was also reminded of how much food college students can pack away in a single sitting. Those days have long since passed for me…
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Christmas Day class party with a student who came to school dressed as Santa. He said he received many odd looks on the train.
Mt. Fuji socks!
Two-toed socks (tabi) make a butterfly when put together
On Christmas morning, Santa slipped in a little gift for Viktoria in the form of Japanese two-toed socks called tabi. Unfortunately, there was no time to enjoy them as Christmas day in Japan is more commonly known as “Friday,” which also happened to be a work day this year.
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Our KFC-inspired Christmas dinner
Japanese-style potato salad in the shape of a Christmas tree
I bought too many mini Christmas cakes
That evening, we recreated the “traditional” Japanese Christmas dinner with a vegetarian spin on KFC’s fried chicken meal, featuring southern-fried tofu and buttermilk biscuits. After scouring the internet for other Christmas recipes, I also came up with potato salad shaped like a Christmas tree, trimmed with carrot stars and cucumber peel garland. And Christmas cakes. So. Many. Mini. Cakes.
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A Christmas bounty from home included six bottles of Frank’s Red Hot Sauce, one of which is nearly gone already!
Santa took a header into the chimney on the way to delivering a gift card from home
Some manly-smelling beer soap featuring actual craft beer as the main ingredient
Thanks to the global delays in shipping, goodies continued to show up at our door in the days following Christmas. Our old friends Frank, Justin Cheryl and Whitman came tucked into a box from my mom in the form of hot sauce, peanut butter cups, cookies and chocolate respectively. A card from my dad featuring Santa head over teakettle in the chimney contained a very generous gift card.
A bar of Apricot Wheat beer soap from my brother arrived the day after Christmas. I literally had the camera in hand, taking a picture of it for this post, when the doorbell rang. Santa’s Japan Post affiliate delivered two companion pieces made from Sierra Nevada and Samuel Adams beers. A note in an e-mail read: “Combining local beers so you feel at home, but soap so you both can lather and always smell like a Portlander.”
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Visitors posing for selfies in front of Tokyo Station’s Marunouchi Building illuminations
Crowd control at the Tokyo Station illuminations. We were herded in groups from the station exit to the viewing area.
Tokyo Station Hotel up close
The Tokyo Station Marunouchi Building was heavily damaged by bombings during World War II. A five-plus year renovation project completed in 2012 restored much of the building’s original architecture.
Tokyo Station Hotel
This statue of Santa was probably missing a chimney for his foot to rest on. The bell looked more like a bottle of liquor, so maybe Santa was just striking a Captain Morgan pose?
Lighted trees line Marunouchi’s Naka Dori shopping street
Tokyo Station Hotel illuminations. In 2012, an impressive projection mapping display caused major traffic problems, leading to the more toned-down lighting display.
Kids pose for a photo with a statue of famed Meiji-era novelist Natsume Sōseki, author of “I Am a Cat” and other commentaries of life around the turn of the 20th century
We wrapped up the Christmas season with a trip into central Tokyo’s Marunouchi district for the last night of illuminations at the restored Tokyo Station Marunouchi Building. In 2012, an impressive 4D projection-mapping display caused major traffic headaches due to the massive crowds, so subsequent displays have been more toned down.
Yet, large crowds still poured out of Tokyo Station. We were ushered like cattle from the station to the viewing area between cloth barriers held by event staff. We snapped some photos, then walked down Marunouchi’s Naka Dori shopping street through the remains of the event’s Christmas Market.
Christmas 2015 is now officially in the books and the New Year is right around the corner. Hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and best wishes for 2016!
Our road to Tokyo’s controversial Yasukuni Shrine started with empty stomachs.
It’d been months since we’d visited the gluttonous paradise of Loving Hut‘s vegetarian buffet. I loosened my belt, hopped on the train and headed for Tokyo’s Chiyoda ward. It’s hard to justify the nearly three-hour round trip just for lunch, so we figured we’d also check an item off our “to-see list” and hit up Yasukuni Shrine as well.
Lunch was even better than anticipated and I approached it with the vigor of a man facing his last meal. I was reminded of an early episode of The Simpsons, which also had a great joke about “fish bread” that sums up our typical eating-out experiences in Japan…
Yasukuni Shrine Flea Market
After the feast, it seemed prudent to walk the mile to Yasukuni Shrine. Approaching the main gate, we saw a couple tents set up selling used clothing. Then we noticed that the tents just kept going and going.
The path to Yasukuni Shrine was lined with vendors for the twice-monthly Yasukuni Flea Market
We’d lucked into the twice-a-month Yasukuni Shrine Flea Market. 150 vendors line the entry path to the shrine, hawking everything from the aforementioned clothes to pottery, books, toys and more. Secondhand goods are a rare find in Japan as it is, so stumbling upon a flea market is like finding gold at the end of a rainbow.
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A young hawker at the Yasukuni Flea Market filled the air with his shouts of “Irasshaimase!”—the typical cry of welcome into a Japanese shopping establishment
Clothing and more at the Yasukuni Shrine Flea Market
A couple wait patiently for someone to check out their collection of anime character action figures
A very pink and Hello Kitty-heavy collection at the Yasukuni Shrine Flea Market
$2 boots?! Only at the Yasukuni Shrine Flea Market!
The main gate to Yasukuni Shrine
The prices were also lucky for Tokyo standards, with nice pieces of tableware going for just 300 yen (about $2.50 USD). Viktoria scored a pair of boots for just 200 yen ($1.65) from a vendor who was also a terrible negotiator. The price started at 400 yen, but when we noted they were a bit too small, she lowered the price to 300 yen. When we pointed out a small pull in the zipper, she dropped it to 200 yen. My guess for her negative-negotiating fervor is the boots are cursed… only time will tell!
Yasukuni Shrine’s main hall
A Controversial Memorial
Yasukuni Shrine itself isn’t any more spectacular than any of the other major shrines in Tokyo, but its history is far more polarizing. Established in 1869, Yasukuni enshrines the spirits of those who died in battle while fighting for Japan. At present, nearly 2.5 million people have been deified in the shrine.
The official stated purpose of the shrine is as as memorial to those soldiers, relief workers and factory workers who supported various war efforts. However, critics view the shrine as a monument to Japan’s imperial military past. The first soldiers to be enshrined fought for Emperor Meiji in Japan’s civil war (Boshin War), which effectively ended the Edo Period and shogunate rule in Japan.
Yet, it was the post-World War II enshrinements that cast the shrine in its current controversial light. More than 5,700 Japanese military personnel were convicted of war crimes by international tribunals in the years following the war. Class A charges were levied against the leaders who planned and directed the war, most notably General Hideki Tōjō, Japan’s prime minister and the man responsible for the bombing of Hawaii’s Pearl Harbor in 1941. The remaining ranks were charged with Class B and C infractions for “conventional” crimes as well as crimes against humanity.
War criminals were initially excluded from enshrinement in any Japanese shrine. In 1954, the government began to loosen the restriction and Class B and C criminals were enshrined at Yasukuni over an 8-year period beginning in 1959.
In 1970, the shrine resolved to accept the Class A war criminals for enshrinement, a decision that mostly flew under the radar at the time. However, the residing priest postponed the enshrinements until after his death. In 1978, the Class A criminals were enshrined in a secret ceremony.
Japan’s wartime emperor Hirohito refused to visit the shrine after the enshrinement; a close advisor wrote that the emperor was “displeased” with the decision to include the Class A criminals. His son, the current Emperor Akihito (who incidentally celebrated his 82nd birthday yesterday), has never visited the shrine.
A simple visit to the shrine can put public figures under unwanted spotlight. An October visit by two mid-level Japanese cabinet members led to official condemnations from the governments of China and South Korea, two countries who suffered greatly at the hands of the Japanese during the war. China’s Foreign Ministry publicly criticized pop star Justin Bieber after he was photographed at the shrine during a 2014 visit.
In November, a bomb exploded in a shrine restroom during the annual autumn festival. The bomb was believed to be a politically-motivated response to the remilitarization of Japan’s armed forces—a purely-defensive organization since the end of WWII.
Erasing The Past?
As far as I know, the Chinese Foreign Ministry hasn’t publicly condemned our visit. The only real difference I noticed from any other shrine is that photographs were strictly forbidden. A solitary security guard waved off anyone attempting to photograph the shrine up close. The shrine’s website has strict rules about media coverage that apparently extends to the average visitor.
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A memorial to Japan’s WWII tokko pilots, better known as kamikaze pilots, outside the Yūshūkan military museum
A Japanese “Zero” fighter plane, similar to the ones used in the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor, is displayed in the lobby of the Yūshūkan military museum
Yūshūkan, a military museum located on the shrine’s grounds, doesn’t do much to help the image of glorifying the war era. A statue of a tokko pilot—better known as a kamikaze pilot—stands outside the musuem. An A6M “Zero” fighter plane, similar to the ones that attacked Pearl Harbor, is on display in the museum’s front room.
Yasukuni raises an interesting question about how to embrace the questionable parts of a country’s past. Is it right to ignore the souls of two million soldiers who were just following orders, no different than any other soldier of any other nation during any other war?
Japan, for its part, has spent much of the last 70 years apologizing, but the current government is starting to back off that policy, much to the outrage of China, Korea and others. Short of Japan fully falling on its sword over WWII atrocities—effectively committing modern-day political suicide—the conflict between these countries isn’t going anywhere.
The sun shining through the willow trees in Yasukuni’s Shinchi Teien garden
Embracing Today
The sun shined brightly through the few orange and yellow leaves that remained on the barren winter maple trees in Yasukuni’s Shinchi Teien garden. War and controversy would be the furthest thing from anyone’s mind crossing the stone bridge over the garden’s pond.
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The last of the changing leaves peek through the barren winter branches
Standing
Standing in the tranquil Shinchi Teien garden on the outskirts of Yasukuni Shrine
A young couple dressed in traditional Shinto wedding clothing payed their respects at Yasukuni’s alter. Young archers practiced in the distance behind the shrine’s sumo arena, home to the annual spring wrestling tournament. The Nōgakudo stage was empty, but is often filled with traditional Noh plays and dance performances. The lively flea market began to quiet as vendors packed up their wares.
I don’t know the right answer for Yasukuni. The families of Chinese and Korean citizens who suffered during World War II have a right to be upset by the “glorification” of war criminals. Japanese who lost family members on the battlefield of not just WWII, but countless other wars, have a right to be upset that their loved ones aren’t allowed to rest in peace. Americans who lost loved ones at Pearl Harbor would be justified in cringing at the monuments to those responsible for taking their lives.
Maybe the right answer is that there isn’t one. To move forward, someone will have to be willing to leave the past behind. It will take the strength of nations, which is a lot to ask in this day and age.
In the process of documenting our experiences living in Japan over the last two years, I somehow failed to write a basic “This is where we live” post. So let’s remedy that!
A Rich History
Kawagoe’s post-Edo Period history began with its founding in 1889. In 1922, it became Saitama Prefecture’s first official city. Today, it’s Saitama’s third-most populous city—roughly the same size and population as Anaheim, California.
But Kawagoe’s history extends much further back. Located near the foothills of the Okuchichibu Mountains, it’s a rich agricultural region. The area played an important role in feudal Japan due to its central location in the Kanto Region, earning it the nickname “Koedo,” meaning “Little Edo” (Edo being the former name of Tokyo).
In 1545-1546, a massive battle took place at Kawagoe Castle between warring samurai clans. More than 85,000 soldiers from the Uesugi clan attempted to take the castle from the Late Hōjō clan. Just 3,000 Hōjō soldiers held off the attack until 8,000 reserves arrived.
Despite being significantly outnumbered, the Hōjō mounted a sneak attack in the middle of the night, ending not only the siege but also wiping out the Uesugi family. Kawagoe Castle became the western line of defense for Edo and the Kawagoe Domain earned its place as an important stronghold for the ruling Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo Period (1603-1868).
While the story may be the stuff of movies, it actually became the stuff of video games. The Siege of Kawagoe Castle was featured as a storyline in the 2010 Nintendo Wii game “Samurai Warriors 3.”
Kawagoe Today
The preservation of Kawagoe’s history makes it a popular tourist destination. It’s an easy 30-minute train ride from Tokyo and offers something for everyone.
Kawagoe’s most famous landmark, Toki no Kane (Bell of Time)
The centerpiece of the city is Toki no Kane, or the Bell of Time. The tower was originally built between 1624 and 1644. The original was destroyed by the Great Fire of Kawagoe in 1893 and rebuilt a year later. Today, it still rings at four key times during the day.
Kurazukuri Street features well-preserved warehouses from the 18th and 19th centuries
After the fire in 1893, fireproof warehouses built from clay and tile began to spring up all over the city. Kurazukuri Street retains the look with warehouses dating back to the 18th century, housing artisan shops, cafes, museums and more.
Kashiya Yokochō (Confectioner’s Row) features local snacks, candy and more
Kashiya Yokochō (Confectioner’s Row) is one of the most popular stops—certainly one of our favorites! On the narrow pedestrian alley, locally-run shops sell traditional candies, crackers and snacks. Shrimp-cracker sandwiches and 3-foot-long bread sticks are among the local specialties.
Crea Mall is a little busier during festival season
The pedestrian-only Crea Mall offers a more typical shopping experience just outside Kawagoe Station. In addition to smaller, locally-owned shops, you’ll find Gap, ABC Mart and Starbucks. It’s a great place for a little shopping, lunch or drinks.
Kawagoe Naritasan Betsuin, a Buddhist temple that also hosts the monthly Kawagoe Shrine Sale
Kitain is home to several important buildings of the Edo Period and hosts some of the city’s best New Year’s festivals
Renkeiji Temple is on the city’s Seven Lucky Gods walking tour and hosts the monthly Kawagoe Farmers Market
Closeup of a few of the Rakan at Kita-in
We also seem to have an unusually-impressive collection of shrines and temples. Kita-in is the most famous, founded by Buddhist monks in 830 A.D. In 1638, a fire burned much of the temple. Then-shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu donated several buildings from Tokyo’s Edo Castle to the shrine to help rebuild. Edo Castle was largely destroyed in the Great Kanto earthquake of 1923, leaving the structures at Kita-in as the only remaining original buildings.
A collection of 500 stone statues featuring disciples of Buddha fill a garden on the temple grounds. Folklore suggests that if you visit in the middle of the night, one of the statues will feel warm to the touch. When you return in the daylight, you’ll find that statues resembles you. However, I’ve never seen the gates to the statue open, so I guess there’s no way to know for sure…
With New Year’s right around the corner, Kita-in and Naritasan Betsuin Temple are both great places to literally ring in the New Year as you can wait in line to gong the large bronze temple bells (ō-bonshō).
The Koedo Loop Bus is a fun way to see all the sights in one day
If you only have one day in Kawagoe, you can use one of the old-style Koedo Loop Buses to get around town. The bus stops at all of the landmarks and for just 500 yen ($4.13 USD), you can buy an all-day hop-on/hop-off pass. You can also pick one of the walking tours if you’re up for a lot of walking. The Seven Lucky Gods walking tour hits all the best temples, Confectionary Row, the warehouse district and the Bell Tower.
Our Neighborhood
We live in the suburbs of Kawagoe, Saitama, about four miles from the city center. Despite choosing our apartment from some roughly-translated faxed floor layouts, we found ourselves in a perfect little neighborhood.
We have a great park just a couple blocks away and three large grocery stores within a 10-minute walk. The nearby bakery is a fun place to hang out on a Sunday morning and the baker often comes out of the kitchen to greet us personally before finding a little something extra to drop on our tray only after we’ve already paid.
Your typical “tiny” Japanese home?
We’d heard horror stories about the small sizes of Japanese homes. They certainly do exist, but not in our neighborhood. Our apartment is in the middle of a residential area with mostly single-family homes. Having watched some of them be built last spring, I know them to be mostly 1,400-1,600 square feet with three to four bedrooms and multiple living spaces. Regardless of size, Japanese apartments and homes use the available space very efficiently.
Kawagoe Stories
Check out some of the older posts featuring stories from daily life in Kawagoe.
